1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions, in particular compositions for use in skin care which comprise at least one compound of the retinoid family. More particularly, the present invention relates to stable compositions comprising at least one compound of the retinoid family and at least one polyamine polymer.
2. Description of the Background
Retinoid-based cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions have undergone a major development during the past few years. Among the retinoids, the use of retinoic acid in compositions for the treatment of acne is well-known.
However, other derivatives of the retinoid family are also useful, both for the treatment of acne, as well as for skin care. These derivatives in particular are useful in limiting, even eliminating, the effects of skin ageing which include wrinkles, wizened appearance, yellowing, loss of elasticity, roughness, dryness, and the appearance of marks which are the usual manifestations of skin ageing. These manifestations are all the more pronounced the more frequently the skin has been exposed to sunlight or the more the skin is particularly sensitive to exposure to UV radiation.
Thus, the effects of intrinsic ageing of the skin (linked to age) and of photoageing (due to exposure to sunlight) may be cumulative. The manifestations of ageing usually appear at an advanced age; however, their prevention should be undertaken from the onset of adulthood by appropriate care.
The treatment of the skin with derivatives of the retinoid family forms part of these preventive or curative treatments of the manifestations of ageing which are wrinkles, wizened skin, yellowing, loss of elasticity, roughness, dryness and marks.
Among the derivatives of the retinoid family, retinol, also known by the name of vitamin A, and the esterified derivatives of retinol are most particularly useful. Indeed, retinol is a natural endogenous constituent of the human body. It is well-tolerated on application to the skin up to levels which are much higher than retinoic acid. The esters of retinol are converted to retinol by the human body.
However, when they are introduced into a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for topical application, retinol and its esters are rapidly degraded under the effect of light, oxygen, metal ions, oxidizing agents, water and in particular under the effect of increases in temperature. The thermal degradation of retinol has been the subject of a study published in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 46, 191-198 (July-August 1995).
Various combinations of retinol and other derivatives of the retinoid family with antioxidants are known, the retinoids having enhanced stability in these combinations.
WO 93/00085 describes W/O emulsions comprising retinol and a stabilizing system consisting of a chelating agent such as, for example, EDTA and an antioxidant which may be either a fat-soluble antioxidant such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) or vitamin E, or a water-soluble antioxidant such as vitamin C. According to this disclosure, it is also possible to prepare W/O emulsions containing retinol stabilized by a system consisting of a fat-soluble antioxidant and a water-soluble antioxidant.
EP 0 608 433 describes compositions containing retinol and a stabilizer selected from chelating agents and polysaccharides, oils with an iodine number greater than 70, polyethylene (propylene) glycols, hydroxycarboxylic acid salts, neutral amino acid salts, fat-soluble antioxidants combined with EDTA and with a benzophenone, fat-soluble antioxidants combined with an acidic compound and with a benzophenone, cyclodextrin derivatives in which an antioxidant or a UV-screening agent is included, butanediol and/or fat-soluble antioxidants, water-soluble benzophenone derivatives, basic amino acids and their salts, acidic amino acids and their salts, polar oils and hydrophilic mineral clays.
The use of certain polyamine compounds as antioxidants is known as disclosed in EP 0 209 509.
However, none of the prior art compounds, whether they are described as an antioxidant or more specifically as a stabilizer for a retinoid, make it possible to satisfactorily stabilize retinoids which, therefore, is a continuing need in the art.